Email me if you are interested at bruneicarenthusiast@live.com
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Project Datsun 180b update
Email me if you are interested at bruneicarenthusiast@live.com
Monday, July 21, 2008
Tips on buying car sound system
If you are crazy about bass and does not care about clarity of the music, then SPL is the best choice. You definetely need to focus on the subs (the bigger the better). That means you need high power amplifier for your subs. Try not to use maximum ability of your amps because it produce too much heat and does not last long. Use strong amps which doesnot use its full capacity so that it stay cools at longer operation.
If you prefer the clarity of the music from every detail, then SQ is for you. SQ is more expensive because you need more higher end headsets, components, SQ subs, separate amps and good quality cables. Again make sure you do enough research and when you have decided, make sure you buy complete set, not one at a time because it wont give you the real potential of each component.
Good sound system will impressed others if you do it right with the right amount of budget
Nissan GTR Spec V
How turbo and supercharge works?
In order to burn more fuel, the engine needs more air (oxygen). No point putting in more fuel if the ratio is not right because not all of the fuel injected into the piston will be burnt. This result of wasting petrol and may damage your catalytic converter.
Simply taking air from inside is not enough because hot air does not contain enough oxygen.
There are three ways to increase air supply into your engine:
1. Turbo charge -common in Japanese cars (there is lag because it needs energy from the engine to work)
2. Super charge-common in American cars and useful for drag because there is no lag.
3. Nitro- temporary only
Another method to make your car faster is engine tunning. This means replacing the engine parts, making air easier to flow. However this is only for racing purposes because it makes your engine sound very loud...
American Muscle Cars
I love American muscle cars especially 60's Ford Shelby Cobra, Ford Mustang, Chevy Camaro and Dodge Challenger. I never seen one in Brunei but it is pretty common in Australia. I found this website (most of them were sold out) and they are selling this Shelby wreck for US$30,000! Just the wreck with no engines, doors, etc. It is very rare I guess. A fully restored shelby may reached around US$100k. It is a very good investment because the value always appreciates.
Changing Engine Oil and Oil filter
Before you even decide on servicing yourself, make sure you have all the tools and know the location of the oil filter as different car have different position. If you are not confident on changing it your self, I suggest not to attempt this. Just buy the engine oil and oil filter and send your car to the workshop. Easier. However, if you really wanted to know how, here are the steps that I know on how to change engine oil and oil filter:
Step 1: Buy the right engine oil and oil filter for your car.
Make sure you check your engine oil level regularly at least once a week to make sure you have enough. Engine oil is the life of tyour car. If you are running on low engine oil (maybe there are leaks or it is being burnt which produces white smoke and black carbon form around your exhaust), you need to refill it to the right level. If you dont have any engine oil inside, it will produce white smoke which comes from the engine due to friction of the piston. You then have to replace a new engine which will cost you alot of money. Use smoke stopper if you notice white smoke coming from your exhaust (especially for older cars).
Step 2: Park your car and position the front wheels on something that allows the car to be raised. You will need the space to get under the car.
Step 3: Allow the engine to cool down.
Step 4: Get all your tools ready
Step 5: Locate the nut that drains the engine oil. It is normally underneath the car below the engine. Once you find it, place a container which you use to collect the old engine oil. You can use old engine oil bottle and cut it in half.
Step 6: Open the engine oil cap. Then open the nut using wrench and drain the engine oil. Wait until all old engine oil is drained.
Step 7: Open the oil filter. You might need the right tool which you can find in your local car products shops.
Step 8: Put on the new oil filter and tighten it using hand only. Not too tight because it will expand during operation and it may be difficult to loosen next time you replace it.
Advice: Try to avoid running on low fuel. Low fuel means the fuel is dirty and makes your oil filter and fuel pump clot ( Let me know if I am wrong). Having alot of fuel means your fuel is less dirty and protects your fuel pump and oil filter.
I recommend leaving it over night, allowing most of the old oil to drain and then refilling with new oil in the morning.
Step 9: Tighten the nut using wrench that allows the engine oil to drain.
Step 10: Place dry clean plastic funnel (make sure no sand and water) in the engine opening (there is always label say engine oil) and pour new engine oil slowly. Make sure you don't over fill your engine. New engine oil bottle normally in 5L container. You may use 4.5 L of it depending your car engine size. (check your car manual)
Step 11: Measure the new level. add more if the level does not reach at the mark line. Add until you have reached the mark line.
Step 12: Tighten the engine oil cap and clean all your equipments
Make sure you have someone to help and refer or car manual.
This is not the offical method on changing oil filter and engine oil as it varies with different car maker. It is just a guide and I will not responsible if something goes wrong.
Please leave comment if you want to add in this post.
Wheel Washing
Tools you will need:
- 3 gallon (11.4 litre) clean bucket
- water hose capable of reaching around the car
- non-silicone wash sponge
- soft, non-metal brush with a heavy populated leading edge
- medium size (hand) terry towels or Microwipes for washing or drying
- very mild, non-acidic, non-alkaline spray-on wheel cleaner
The basic wheel wash steps are as follows:
Step 1: Do not wash or rinse any wheel directly after vehicle operation. Use your wheel cleaner according to directions. Start by spraying your wheel evenly one at a time to prevent the wheel cleaner from drying on the wheel, and let stand for 2-3 minutes.
Step 2: Brush your wheels gently being careful of wheel weights and taped wheel weights. Do not scrub the finish.
Note: Do not use brushes with metal handles as these brushes will scratch your wheels.
Step 3: Rinse in and around your wheel wells to remove dirt and excess wheel cleaner. Do not let the surface dry. Repeat step 1 to 3 if the wheels are extremely soiled.
Step 4: Rinse all wheels again and dry each wheel gently.
Step 5: Start the car and back up with a slight pressure on the brake pedal to squeegee off the rotors.
Step 6: Now, wax your wheels. Apply a non-abrasive quality Wheel Coat or Wax to your wheels. Waxing your wheels provides definitive protection against brake pad adhesive damage by sacrificing the wax not your wheel finish. Yes, you will have to wax after every wheel wash but this is a small price to pay for insuring perfect wheels.
Step 7: As before, towels or Microwipes used for washing and drying should be washed in hot water with a small amount of mild, non-phosphate based laundry detergent. Rinse the towels twice in hot water (removes all soap) and machine dry (no pollutant exposure) without fabric softener. Keep wheel towels separate from paint work towels.
This wheel wash process is more work but your wheels will clean easier and look better.
Happy trying
Source: Zymol Australia
Project Datsun 180b
Paint Washing
Here are some tools you need:
- 5 gallon (19 litre) clean bucket
- water hose capable of reaching around the car
- non-silicone wash sponge
- 2oz. (59ml) natural 'soap', not detergent
- real or synthetic Chamois
- clean Microwipes
The most important thing to be aware of when preparing to wash your car is the temperature of the area being washed. This is even more important than the ambient temperature, which should be between 50° and 80°F (10° -26.7°C). If the car has been in the sun for any time, it should be brought into the shade and allowed to cool off before dousing it with water.
In addition, on recently driven cars, the brakes will be very hot, and if cold water gets onto the brake discs, they could warp. So get your car out of the garage and onto a flat, paved surface that is out of direct sunlight. Sunlight, as you know, turns drops of water into tiny lenses, burning the paint under them.
VERY IMPORTANT: Remove your watch, rings, keys and bracelets. Be alert to belt buckles, zippers and rivets on jeans. One slip can be a costly scratch or dent.
Step 1: Start the washing process by using the hose with a fine spray to fill your bucket with 2oz. (59ml) for car wash 'soap' and 5 gallons (19 litres) of cool water.
Step 2:Drop your sponge into the water for later use and begin rinsing the car from top to bottom with your hose. Use a medium pressure. Do not use a compressor driven power washer. High speed (pressure) water can lift paint and/or propel small stones at high speed across your paint or even worse, into your paint. During this first process do not wash below the midline (belt line) of your car.
Step 3:Using the soap soaked sponge, apply a heavy coating of soap suds (by squeezing the sponge) to a small area of the roof you can easily reach without moving your feet and lightly wipe the panels with your bare hand as you rinse it off. This assures you that there is no sand or dirt stuck to the car's surface that might be unknowingly picked up later by your sponge or towel.
Step 4:Now, rinse the entire car! This entire car rinsing should take place every time you wash anything on the car. This constant irrigation keeps the surface wet and does not let errant soap suds dry anywhere.
Step 5:Start the actual washing by using the soap filled sponge on the section you just 'hand washed' of the roof, and then rinse the entire car. Finish the other side of the roof, and then wash all the windows, lifting the wipers and working all the way down to the cowl. Remember to keep rinsing so that the water won't dries up with the soap which can damage the paint.
Step 6:After the roof, then work on the bonnet (hood). Washing one side, rinsing the entire car then wash the other side and rinse the car again. Follow up with doing the boot (trunk) the same way.
Step 7: After this is complete, work the entire upper portion of one side of your car, one panel at a time. Now is a good idea to empty the soap bucket after you finish with the horizontal and upper vertical surfaces, then start with fresh soap for the lower sides.
Step 8:Finish the wash sequence with the lower portions, including bumpers, grille and taillights.
Step 9:Push water off of the car using a chamois or synthetic chamois.
DO NOT USE THE CHAMOIS TO DRY THE CAR.
Chamois will remove wax and possibly scratch your car if used when almost dry and with a high amount of friction.
Step 10:Next, gently dry your car using 100% un-sized cotton towels or non-polyester microwipes being sure to open the bonnet, boot and all doors to dry up collected water in body drainage areas, door jams and sills.
This paint wash process is more work but your car will clean easier and look better.
Hope the above tips is useful and you can enjoy washing your car the RIGHT way.
Happy trying.
Source: Zymol Australia
Welcome to Brunei Car Enthusiast
First of all, welcome to my blog, Brunei Car Enthusiast. Since you visit my blog, you should be a car enthusiast like myself or may be just curious and wanted to know more about cars.
My goal is to provide as much information about cars to you and perhaps you also can share your knowledge about cars to other fellow readers. I will provide topics for people to discuss and share ideas in the future. I would appreciate all comments that is relevant to the topic. Please respect one another and hope you enjoy my blog.
Thank you
Isz24